Surfing is one of the hardest sports I have tried but for sure the most rewarding. In California, swells can get up to eight feet high and the water is frigid. Watching locals out on the water makes the sport look easy, but that is far from the truth.
Getting into the ocean:
When there are eight foot waves crashing on top of you while you are hauling a board into the ocean you consider if it is worth the risk. The pounding water makes your heart race. Sometimes you have to jump off your board and dive under the water if the wave is going to crash down on top of you. Other times you can get away with ducking your head and letting the water roll over you. Once you get to the calm spot in the ocean and catch your breath you realize how exhilarating the sport is.
Waiting for the wave:
The next step is to wait for the perfect wave. Sometimes there is a lull which means that there are not any big waves that you are able to ride in on. When this happens you have to wait for a swell, which is a set of larger waves that form in the calm water. When a swell forms, you find the wave you want to ride in on. Once you find the wave, you have to start paddling to start moving at the same speed as the wave. If you are going the same speed of the wave by the time the wave gets to you then you can ride the wave in.
On the board:
Standing up on the board is a process. The bigger your surf board is the easier it is to stand up because there is more room to balance. As a beginner, most people will only get to their knees to learn how to balance. Once you master this, then you can stand up on the board. There are two ways to do this. The first way is by getting on your knees and then standing up from there. The second way is by putting your hand on the board and popping up right away. After you stand up, then you have to keep your balance with the wave until the wave goes past you. That is when you jump down from the board and start the process over again.
The more you surf the easier it gets. As it gets easier you can move to a smaller board which allows you to start to learn more tricks on the board. No matter what though, the cold California water is a shock every time.